While gutter guards are vital in ensuring your roof is protected from leaf build up and water damage, they lose their purpose if your gutters are old and damaged. If you are planning on installing gutter guards on your roof-line you may want to first think about installing new gutters.
Gutters and downpipes are often neglected on the home maintenance list of things to do but they have an important role in protecting your walls and foundations from water damage.
While most gutter damage can be fixed with a routine clean and silicone, some damage is extensive and will require installing new gutters. This can be done yourself if you are willing to give it a go however you will need to check that your local council permits DIY jobs when installing new gutters.
Some gutter ranges are easier to install than others. Traditional quad gutters have external brackets that adorn the roof-line, more square shaped gutters fix to the roof with suspension clips.
Be sure that your new gutter system is big enough for the size of your roof and is the same colour as your eaves and tiles or it will stick out like a sore thumb.
Installing new gutters
Cut gutter to the same length as the roofs fascias; overlap the joins by 100mm in the direction of the flow, then pre-drill.
To waterproof and seal, run roof and gutter silicone across the base and up the sides of the overlap. Reposition the gutter upside down, overlapping the pre-drilled holes, and join together with 3.2mm-diameter rivets. Seal around the rivets and along the seam with the silicone also.
Position stop-ends and pre-drill for riveting with two holes up the back, two across the base and one or two up the face side.
Run silicone along the overlap and then fix the stop-end using 2mm rivets.
Mark the centre of the outlet on the bottom of the gutter. Place the spout, flange side down, and trace the inside. Put timber off-cuts under the hole and cut a V-shaped notch with a cold chisel. Cut 1-2mm outside the lines using tin snips.
Slip the spout into the outlet hole and pre-drill two 2mm holes on short sides of the flange. Remove the spout and run silicone around the opening. Press the spout into the silicone and then fix using rivets.
Measure and match up the mitres (for internal mitres, the face sides are shorter than the back. For external mitres, the face sides are longer than the back).
Measure the width of the gutter and transfer this measurement along the back or face top edge. Mark this point and draw a 45º line to the opposing corner.
Allow 5mm length for the bracket.
Test-fit the mitre in the corner bracket. Run some silicone along the bottom edge of the gutter and the top edge of the lower bracket only. Temporarily clamp and tighten the internal bracket in place.
Hang the Gutter
1. To set the slope, drive a nail 10mm below the top edge of the fascia at the high end. Calculate minimum gutter fall of 1:500 (AS2180-1986) for 2mm of fall for each metre of gutter. Drive a nail at the lower end.
Fix a stringline between nails and check fall with a spirit level.
Position brackets along stringline at maximum 1200mm centres and then fix with twist galvanised gutter nails.
With external brackets, roll the tip of the bracket strap over the top rolled edge and fix the back top edge of the gutter to the fascia with 40mm galvanised gutter twist nails.
Use a plumb line from the outer edge of the spout down the side of the first downpipe and mark. This lower point is the centre point of the upper offset cut.
For the second down-pipe, measure the length needed to bring the downpipe inside the stormwater and mark this around the downpipe. To set 45º on the face, draw a line half the width of the downpipe on either side of the first line and cut out as far as the lower offset.
Slide the bottom half of the downpipe inside the upper section. Position for a snug fit between the gutter and stormwater. Rivet downpipe sections together at the back, then rivet the downpipe to the spout.
Anchor the downpipes to the wall with two brackets (astragals) and masonry anchors.